Sitting on the coast of the Mediterranean and known more for its complicated past than its charming mountain villages, Lebanon is not most people’s choice for a ski holiday. However, given that we are currently based in Cyprus and Lebanon is a sweet 20 minutes flight away, we decided to try something new this skiing season. Here is what we have discovered.
Mzaar Kfardebian Ski Resort
The Mzaar Ski Resort is reportedly the best equipped and most popular resort of Lebanon, located in Kfardebian village, an hours drive from Beirut. According to the official website, there are 42 slopes and 80 kilometers of ski tracks. I’m assuming by slopes they don’t mean actual pistes, because the official map only marks 18, plus 2 private pistes which belong to the Intercontinental hotel. Regardless, there is plenty of room for skiers at all levels and beautiful unpisted runs for those looking for a bit more excitement. The peak of Mzaar is at 2465m peak of Mzaar and offers stunning views over the Bekaa valley, Mount Hermon of the Anti-Lebanon and other peaks like Laqlouq and the Cedars. On a clear day, you can even catch a glimpse of Beirut and Jounieh beneath, as well as the sparkling Mediterranean beyond. The other peak, Jabal Dib at 2296m, is home to the heighest restaurant in Lebanon “Auberge le Valais” that offers interpretations of alpine staples such as raclette, rosti, fondue and vin chaud. To make things more exciting, they also offer nargile. Needless to say, we had to have one. Here is a 360° video where you can get a good feel for a typical day skiing in Mzaar, Lebanon.
Where to stay
We stayed at Urban Faqra Hotel, in a small village just below the ski resort. It is a small boutique hotel of 8 rooms, a lounge and a restaurant. It’s perfectly charming with plenty of rugs, cushions, mountain views to sooth you after a day of skiing. They serve a generous Lebanese breakfasts and even bring you dinner to the room at no extra charge if you don’t have the energy to get out of your bathrobe and venture out to find food. The staff is super friendly and helpful, speaking English and French. Roland, the manager had introduced us to his friends so we could rent out skis and snowmobiles. It felt like a home away from home. At the very end of our stay, we discovered the ODOM Camp, which is now at the top of my wish-list for our next visit! It is owned by the same family who run Urban Faqra, so I trust we will be in good hands.
Another really cool thing to do in Mzaar is to hire a snowmobile to explore the vast mountain valleys away from the main ski area. It seems that every self-respecting local entrepreneur offers skidoo tours – ranging between 100 and 150 USD for the hour. We got ours from Roland’s friend, who also happened to be the ski champion of Lebanon. Kitted out with all the necessary gear (and feeling rather cool about ourselves), we raced our guide through the valeys, arriving at a plateau to watch the sun set behind the mountain range with noone else in sight. While it was all very romantic, patches of barbed wire on the ground and several “Caution: Mine field” signs served as a stark reminder of the country’s turbulent past. Back at the shop, decorated with photographs of the owner’s victory, we were offered tea (and cigarettes – everybody smokes, everywhere) and chatted to in French about our impressions of Lebanon and all the things we must do during our stay. Chaleureux. That’s one word that comes to mind when I think of Lebanon.
Skiing in Lebanon is safe, fun and affordable! We found that everything (accomodation, ski passes and ski hire) is much cheaper than anywhere in Europe. The downside of this, is of course the infrastructure, which is not as modern as in some of the hot ski resorts in Europe. So forget cosy, heated capsule lifts of Courchavel. This is the old school baby. If that doesn’t bother you too much, I would highly recommend it. The resort is big enough for a solid few days of skiing, there is plenty of nice accomodation, good food, friendly people and fun things to do off-piste.
Besides, where else can you have shisha on top of a mountain, without ever taking off your ski boots?
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